Aconcagua

Article

January 24, 2022

Aconcagua (6962 m above sea level) is a mountain located in the western part of Argentina and is the highest mountain in America. It is also the highest mountain in the Western and Southern Hemispheres and the highest mountain outside Asia. Aconcagua exceeds the surrounding peaks by up to 1000 m. The mountain and its surroundings are part of the Aconcagua Natural Park. There are several glaciers on the slopes of the mountain, the most important being the Polish Glacier in the northeast and the English Glacier in the east. The Aconcagua River rises on the mountain, which flows westwards and empties into the Pacific Ocean near the town of Valparaíso in Chile.

History

In the Inca language, it was called Anco-cahuac. This name in Quechua means White Guard. It is not proven that the Incas were the first to reach the top, but they undoubtedly reached great heights. Their traces were found on other peaks of the Andes, even at altitudes over 6000 m. The first European to explore the Aconcagua area was General José de San Martín with his huge army of 53,000 soldiers, 10,600 mules and 1,600 horses. In 1817, he crossed the Andes in this area. Charles Darwin saw Acocagua in 1832. Paul Gussfeldt (one of Germany's most famous climbers of the time) was the first European to attempt to climb to the top, reaching a height of 6560 m in 1883. The first to reach the top of the mountain was a mountain leader from Switzerland. Mathias Zurbriggen in 1897. Two other members of the expedition climbed to the top a few days later.

Position

Aconcagua is located in Argentina in the Andes Mountains near the border with Chile and is bordered by the valleys de las Vacas and de los Horcones Inferior. The mountain is located in the Andes mountain range, in the Argentine province of Mendoza. The peak lies about 5 km from the province of San Juan and 15 km from the state border with Chile. Mendoza is located 112 km southeast of Aconcagua. It is one of the mountains of the so-called Seven Summits group. The geographical coordinates of the peak are −32.653276, −70.010812.

Geology

The mountain was created by subduing the Nazca plate under the South American plate during the geologically recent Andean orogenesis. Aconcagua is not a volcano.

Ascent to the top

To climb the mountain, you need a permit, the price of which is currently $ 700. Around 3,500 people try to reach the top every year. Normal route - A large part of the ascent leads through rubble. There are usually no snow fields on the way, but in some sections it is necessary to equip the glacier (cats, ice ax), due to frozen terrain, etc. Nido des Condores (4877 m), Berlin (5950 m) and Independencia (6546 m, the former highest cottage in the world, now in ruins). Aconcagua is technically a relatively easy mountain when climbing from the North on the Normal Road. There is no need for some really demanding climbing, the problem is the low atmospheric pressure at high altitude, the air pressure values ​​are about 40% lower than the pressure at sea level. Polish Road - leads through the Vacas Valley to the Plaza Argentina camp located east of the mountain. The next step is to climb the Polish Glacier from the east side to the north rib located below the Independencia camp. The continuation of the Polish Road is the same as for the "normal". More challenging ascent than the normal route, yet it is feasible even able-bodied and experienced alpine tourists. South wall - Several climbing routes lead through the south wall. All variants are demanding rock climbing or very steep ice. The first ascent through the south wall was made in 1954 by the French (Paragot, Poulet, Dagory, Berandini, Lesseur and Denis).

Record

The fastest ascent along the Normal route was made in 1991 and lasts

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